with my hands – Dream
Yellow dotty ballet flats.
Sewing

Yellow outdoor ballet flats

This is now my second official pair of ballet flats and the first pair that has proper outdoor soles. I love this yellow dotty fabric that I found in the remnant bin (where else, you know me!). I got the soling sheet from the little shoe repair shop at the local mall (Sello, if any of the locals want to know).

My pair of yellow dotty ballet flats with outdoor soles.

Trial shoes

I used the same Living DIY Style pattern as before. However, I have since making my first pair been making trial shoes and trying to improve the fit. It is surprisingly challenging! If you make room for your toes the toes just tend to slide forwards which causes the heel to slip.

My trial slippers.

I had needed to take in the size 8 shoe before, so I decided to go down a size to size 7. That’s the black and white slipper in the picture above. I also tried glueing the lining to the upper with the help of fusible web and curving the heel a bit. However, the shoe felt a bit short and the fusible web didn’t really do much since the soft Vlieseline interfacing had plenty of movement. (If any of my readers know better interfacing options, I’d be happy for any tips!) The curved heel was good, though.

I decided to go up to the size 7,5 and add a bit more room for my toes. That’s the yellow dotty slipper in the picture. I used a little gathering threads to fit the bigger upper to the sole the size of which I didn’t change. With that I noticed that the fit was slightly better at the toes but that the shoe was a bit too pointy and that the shoe covered a bit too much for my taste. I figured out that I needed to add more roundness to the toes and then open up the top of the shoe a bit. This is now the pattern I ended up with:

The pattern modifications.

I decided to still use the same sole and just gather the extra fabric at the toes.

Making the dotty ballet flats

I interfaced the uppers and sewed the upper and the lining together . Then I made the gathering stitches. I overdid the gathering a bit in the picture, though!

Gathering the toe.

Then I sewed the fabric sole to the slipper.

Making the insoles.

The fabric slipper felt slightly big, so I tried the cardboard insole thing, I did with my previous pair. It did improve the fit since the insole forces the sole to lay straighter. Then it was the time to add the soles.

Soling the ballet flats

Glueing on the sole. The glue needs to set.

I got these directions from the local shoemaker: First I needed to sand the wrong side of the soles to make it easier for the glue to stick to them. Then I needed to spread the glue on both the sole and the shoe and leave the both parts alone for about 30 min. In practice my contact glue tube said “15 min” so I used that. Then, following the shoemaker’s directions, I “woke up” the glue by heating it with a hair-dryer and then pressed the sole to the shoe firmly for a few seconds. In practice I slipped my shoe in and stomped my foot against the floor.

The finished pair

This is what I ended up with:

The finished pair.

The side still shows a bit of the fabric sole that I am not very happy with. I think that the next time I will try sewing the fabric sole with the seam allowances outside. Then I could glue the seam allowances under the shoe.

The sole detail.

I couldn’t wait wearing them. First thing I noticed was that the shoe was still just a slightly too long. If I walked carefully, the shoes stayed in place but the next time I will take just a few millimetres off from the length. Or I could just curve the top part of the shoe a bit… Have to think about this…

This sole is very thin so I don’t think it is a sole I would want to wear for longer walks. Or I could add a softer insole to compensate the next time.

My feet and the finished pair.

I wore this pair to go grocery shopping today and that was very revealing to me. I found out a big fault with the cardboard insoles. They kept sliding backwards and that was very annoying! Now that I think about it, I read about this kind of soles online but, at that set of instructions, the upper was glued onto the insole which made it impossible for the insole to slide anywhere. So, I think I need to find stickier insoles or use glue to keep them in place.

The shoes match our kitchen carpet!

So, as you can see, the shoe-making is a learning process! Luckily each shoe is very quick to make, so I can keep making these test shoes. Oh, I wish there was a proper course I could take nearby, preferably one that wouldn’t cost a fortune! I am already dreaming about my own shoe lasts and working with leather!

And those of you who live in the Helsinki region, we are planning a ballet flat making party at Ompelino on 25th of May. It will be “bring your own pattern, materials and your machine” kind of an event and we can then solve shoe mysteries together! The actual details will be confirmed later.

Thank you for reading and happy sewing!

Katja

I am a mother of two. I sew, knit and create and blog about it.

7 Comments

  • SatuPuu

    You could add Foe tape over shoe upper edges if the size is little bit too
    big. These soft shoes looks so nice !If you want I can try to get your real last next week and send them to you.
    You can send me prive message, if you want 🙂
    SatuPuu

  • Cecilia Pihl

    Hi! So excited over your shoes. May I ask where you got the soles from? When i Google it, all I see is inner soles for sale. Best regards! Cecilia-sweden

    • kk

      Do you have show repair shops nearby? In here, every mall has one and the first one I visited sold me the soling sheet.

  • Julia t rushing

    Hi. Nice shoes! thanks for your tutorials. I saw the comment above about foldover elastic tape. I’m wondering if that’s the same as ‘foldover elastic’ ? and I wonder what width would be best. before reading that comment I was thinking you could insert a small bit of may be 1/4″ elastic at back of heel (inside the shoe while constructing it). wonder if that would help. maybe 1/4″ isn’t big enough. I’m intrigued by shoe-making myself. you’re probably familiar with the TOMS shoes that have been popular the past 5 years or so. in that flat, they make a couple of seams at the toe to create a box shape at the end–nice for giving toe room. (maybe I’ll have to examine my TOMS a little more…). thanks again!

    • kk

      Thanks! I think the fold over elastic tape is the same thing. I think the only way to find out is to try it. I think the width is not as important as the elasticity and the thickness of the FOE. I have some lingerie FOE that is certainly too soft to be used for shoes.

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