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    Trench coat project part 5

    The previous parts in my trench coat series can be found: Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 And… I know I promised to show the coat the next time I posted. However, this post became too long and I split it in two parts. No worries, though, I will post them both at the same time and you can read them both! Hemming the coat I used the wonderful book of Roberta Carr, Couture – the art of fine sewing, to instruct me on how to make a good hem. To be honest, this is the most work I’ve ever done with hemming. At first bias strips about 6…

  • Image: Trench coat breast pocket detail.
    My projects,  Sewing,  Tailoring,  Tutorials

    The trench coat project part 4: Gorgeous details and lining

    The previous posts about this trench coat project: Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Belt carriers, sleeve bands and the belt I had my belt and sleeve band buckles ready, so I adjusted the belt (I include now the sleeve bands with the word ‘belts’) widths to suit the buckles. I added some extra length to the sleeve bands since the original ones were meant to be buttoned up. With the belt, I decided to use the whole width of my gabardine and cut the belt on fold. I also made the belt end pointed. The belts and the sleeve bands needed to be interfaced. I interfaced the belts using…

  • Image: Trench coat collar
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    Trench coat project part 3: The Coat is taking shape

    Finally the trench coat is taking shape! The previous posts in the series: Part 1 Part 2 top-stitching Most of the seams in my trench coat have top stitching. My Bernina has previously had trouble with top stitching thread, so I used two treads that I treaded through the machine like a single thread, except having two different spools. I still noticed that I needed a sharp Microtex needle and a well oiled machine to get a neat result. Pockets I mentioned the pockets last time but I never showed how they looked from the right side. I ditched the idea of the original pockets since they were too small…

  • Trench coat interfacing
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    Trench coat project part 2: Off-graining and interfacing

    The first part of the trench coat project can be found here. The next part of the trench coat project was to off-grain the coat fronts, cut the main parts of the coat and attach interfacings. Off-graining the coat fronts Some people were asking for me to explain the off-graining process, so here is a description of what I did. I must warn you that I am not a professional and I only write this down as I have understood it. I recommend using this description as an inspiration only and finding a book written by a professional to learn it properly. One excellent book for this is Couture the Art…

  • My projects,  Sewing,  Tailoring

    Trench coat project part 1

    Aquite a while ago I wrote about my plans of making a trench coat. At that time I had the basic materials ready but was still browsing through the internet to find the perfect pattern. I was annoyed to have found out that McCall’s 5525 trench coat pattern was sold out. However, guess what! I was super lucky to find the exact pattern on Ebay after weeks of searching!  Now, I said that I hated making toiles. Well, for this coat I made an exception since the materials alone were expensive. I also really need this coat so I did not want to spend weeks making this coat and then…