I’m now excited to make trousers after finishing my diy legform. I actually started working with Mönsterfabriken’s Sara trousers pattern already before the legform was ready by making a toile. Unfortunately, I chose a completely wrong fabric and made quite a botched job out of if. Now, after finishing the legform I came back to the pattern deciding that it was time to fit it properly.
A disclaimer: I did not pay for the pattern that I got at Ommel festival.
Sara is a dropped crotch chino pattern that is available both in English and in Swedish. The easy-going shape makes fitting the trousers a bit easier since the trouser fabric doesn’t tend to pull at the crotch.
Mönsterfabriken uses their own sizing system that is based on body measurements rather than your normal size numbering. I don’t really think it makes that much difference as I most sewists look at the size charts anyway before selecting a size. However, for a beginner that might be helpful as sometimes people choose their RTW size rather than the size that is recommended with the size chart. That obviously causes problems as I myself use everything between UK 8 and 14 depending on the pattern in question.
Sara trousers pattern comes in two size ranges based on hip measurements. The first one is 90 to 106 cm and the second 104 to 124 cm. I like the fact that the size ranges overlap. This is something many other companies should do too to help those that fall close to the edge of the two size ranges. I went with size 94.
I found a huge 10-metre piece of very good quality chambray at Eurokangas remnant bins. It costed under 50 euros, so I got the whole lot thinking that I could use it for almost anything: trousers, shirts, dresses, skirts, you name it!
I compared the pattern to a sloper I made with my legform and ended up adding width to the front thigh. I also scooped out the back to make room for my bum and did some other smaller adjustments.
Sara pattern has pretty concise instructions with links to the website where you can get info on how to make some of the trickier parts such as the welt pockets. I was able to figure out most of the process without consulting to the instructions leaflet but I had to check the welt pocket construction as the pocket bag was different than what I have used before. What, however, made me the proudest was that I finally managed to make a trouser fly that I am completely satisfied with! It does no gape or bulge and it stays nice and flat all the time.
I love the big pockets on these trousers! The pockets are lined with some scraps of soft Liberty tana lawn which is just perfect for the job.
I am still debating with myself whether to take in a bit more from the side seams. Right now the trousers fall straight down without any wrinkles but as I look at the images I think that perhaps they could be a little tighter even if they then would end up pulling slightly at the front. I have a tendency to like oversized trousers since they are so comfy but then at some point, I decide that they are too baggy. What do you think?
Anyway, I think Sara trousers pattern is a good pattern to try if you want to make yourself some chinos!
Thank you for reading and see you soon! More trouser-making will soon follow! In the meantime: Happy sewing!