I have been dreaming about sewing my own trench coat for a while. Now that my old one is starting to show some wear and tear I have really started planning. It was difficult to find a pattern for the trench coat. Burda has several options:
The problem in the Burda patterns for me is that the fit is often quite hit and miss, especially what comes to the shoulders and the sleeves (including the armholes). I have narrow shoulders and relatively thin arms so the Burda blouse, dress and jacket patterns that I have tried all needed heavy modifications in that area. I am not a big fan of toiles (muslins) so this is very annoying. Also most of the Burda coats are quite straight and I know from experience that it isn’t a good look on me. I need to have some A-line shape and a defined waist and just a belt won’t do it for me.
Isla trench from Named clothing. also is quite straight and too long and I think it looks better on women longer than me.
Robson coat from Sewaholic patterns was actually a pattern I considered quite a while. It has that A-line shape and it would look pretty good, I think. However, the pattern doesn’t have lining, which is a must in this cold climate. Also I do not like the roundness of the collar.
Luzerne trench coat is a nice new pattern but doesn’t have storm or gun flaps that I’d like to have. Like Robson, it is unlined.
For a long time I was really searching for McCalls 5525 trench coat pattern that I liked although it also lacks the gun flap. However, there are several very good looking results at patternreview.com and many people have made theirs with a gun flap. However, this pattern was impossible to find and I gave up.
Then I found an old vintage pattern from the 60s: Style 3858. It is a crisp A-line double breasted coat that has a really current style despite its age. It doesn’t have the flaps or epaulettes but I decided that I could draft those using my old trench as a model.
I was after a classic look, so I ordered sand-coloured polyester-cotton gabardine from Calico Laine. As I was searching for the lining fabric I found this Burberryish check from Estonian fabric shop Abakhan fabrics and thought, why not? It is not that I could get any more classic lining fabric than this. However, the sleeves need a more slippery fabric so I bought also viscose satin lining fabric from Eurokangas.
I found some nice looking buckles from a local sewing machine slash haberdashery shop and had to buy those. I decided also to include black faux leather piping to the edges of the coat opening to add some edginess.
So, am I going to uptake a project well above my level? Perhaps. But I have made a trench coat before. Remember this?