Breaking the pattern and the Sade blouse

All the sewing blogs are talking about one book: Breaking the pattern by Saara and Laura Huhta. I wanted to wait with the review until I made two of the patterns (Ruska and Sade). In the meantime, I went to the Helsinki book launch party to congratulate the designers for their achievement.

The Helsinki book launch party

There were piles and piles of books waiting for us. Finally, I was able to buy my piece and got it signed rightaway.

I love visiting the Named clothing studio shop since they have all the samples on show. Now the older samples were put away and the shop was decorated with all the samples from the book:

I also met other old friends and sewing bloggers, Jenna, Hanne and Anna.

The book: Breaking the pattern

Breaking the pattern is published by Quadrille publishing. The book is thick: 192 pages plus the pattern sheets. I love how it has been designed from the calming colour palette to the beautiful photography.

The book has 10 basic patterns that have been turned into 20 variations. This is not the actual number of garments you can make with the patterns from this book since you can further mix and match the details between the options presented in the book. There is also a chapter that instructs you to add the details of your own design.

The patterns come in 9 sizes. The size 1 corresponds to the EUR 34 (UK 6, US 2) and the size 9 EUR 50 (UK 22, US 18). The sizes are pretty true to size. I selected my size according to my measurements in the size chart and the two garments that I have made fit well.

The photographs generally show the patterns well. There are many pictures dedicated to the details and The only picture I first felt was missing was a standing picture of the Sade tunic since the model in this chapter is sitting down. Then I went back to the beginning of the book and realized there are several standing pictures of this tunic hidden in the Nummi tote bag chapter! The model showcasing the bag wears the Sade tunic!

I especially love that the dresses (minus the pinafore) and the jumpsuit have long sleeved options. Thus the patterns are suitable to be worn during the winter. The slits in many garments can be sewn up if you want warmer garments. Or perhaps you could add buttons or snaps?

The patterns have very nicely drawn illustrations. Some of the tricker sewing steps have separate photo instructions.

All in all, this is a very good book that I’m very happy with and I can warmly recommend. I have made the Ruska dress and the Sade blouse and will now have to think about whether to choose the Saraste or Solina to make as my third project.

The Sade blouse

The Sade blouse is one of the easier garments in this book. However, with the unusual sleeves and the back, it certainly has character!

I found this beautiful Atelier Brunette floral dotty viscose from Salapakka in Helsinki. The drapey fabric suits this garment beautifully! I bought 150 cm of it. The pattern says 140 cm, but I made my blouse a bit longer. This meant that I didn’t have more than scraps left over. I also made my own bias tape using the same fabric.

I have a long back and I don’t want to show my bare waist so I added 5 cm to the hem. (In retrospect, I should have added 8 cm, since I was finally forced to finish the bottom edge with a narrow fabric strip to preserve the length.) This was the only adjustment I needed. Otherwise, the blouse fit beautifully.

Sewing this was easy. Luckily I had just the right kind of interfacing tape for all the edges that needed it. I was too lazy to switch into dark blue threads with my overlocker so I made French seams. For the ribbons, I used some black vintage silk ribbon that I had in my stash. I think that the bottom hem looked nice even without the ribbon, but I finally put the ribbon in any case. I may have to change the ribbon at some point since the vintage silk is so worn that it is probably coming to pieces after a while.

There is always a risk being one of the first people that make a garment from a pattern. Besides the picture in the book, I only managed to find one other Sade blouse. When the blouse was ready, I tried it on and… it was love at first sight! I mean this is so pretty!

When you are standing still, it looks like a regular blouse but then you turn…

… and have this overlapping back. (In the picture, the wind is blowing the back open, in case you are wondering.)

Besides my arms peeking out through the slits this blouse is surprisingly warm. Perhaps, because it is so loose? I’m not generally going to wear it out in the snow, though!

I might still consider making a proper winter version and closing the slit. I could replace the slit with a pleat at the top of the sleeve to preserve the look. Have to think about it!

All in all, this was a great pattern and I will be using this again for sure!

Whoa! This was a mammoth of a post. Thank you all who read this far and subscribe to get notified on future posts! Psst! There are still a few hours left to get my sewing planner with the 40 % discount!

Happy sewing!

 

Katja