Here it is! I started planning this V8346 coat in October, so
My original idea was to make a shawl collared coat with a wide hem, since I had a similar RTW coat that I loved despite it not fitting very well. The pattern V8346 was a very good starting point. It had a shawl collar and the wide hem and I didn’t have to make huge fitting adjustments. The only minus with this pattern was that it didn’t have a two-piece sleeve. That’s the reason I ended up drafting my own.
I own a vintage tailor-made coat that I used to figure out how to make my coat warm. Traditionally, Finnish-made coats used to have a layer of wadding but as the coat-making industry moved to warmer countries, those coats disappeared from the shops. My vintage coat didn’t have only wadding but also a layer of cotton to block the wind. When you take into account the actual viscose lining and the wool, I basically had to sew four coats!
I found my gorgeous red wool-angora coating from Materials in Helsinki. I managed to negotiate a small discount when I promised to mention where I got the fabric from on my blog. However, I still spent a staggering 300 € for the main fabric and the
Then there were the threads. I used basic Coats polyester sewing thread for the machine sewing. Then for the
Finally, the big red snaps and the covered buttons came from Nappitalo in Helsinki. What else? The gold bias-binding for the hem was from Eurokangas and I got the
All in all this coat might be the most expensive garment that I own, especially if you count the hours of making it (although then my trench coat might come close!). The good thing is that the coat is made to last and that the cost of the materials made me really motivated to finish! I didn’t calculate the exact cost but I estimated that it is a bit over 400 €. However, I can’t really compare that price to RTW coats that are not fitted to my exact figure and no tailor would make a coat like this that cheaply!
The finished V8346 coat
The finished coat is pretty heavy but it doesn’t feel that heavy when I put it on. The collar stays flat when I wear the coat, although I must remember to check it after I put the coat on since it might turn up at that point. I cut the collar slightly smaller than in the pattern and it shrank, even more, when I sewed it up. Finally, however, it looks just fine.
I was a bit worried whether the snaps would hold but they stay closed just fine. The hem flows nicely and the lining and the coat seem to move nicely together. The pockets are big enough that I can stash everything I need in them.
There is a bit of wrinkling at the sleeves which I think is mostly because the sleeves are perhaps a tiny bit too long. However, that doesn’t finally bother
The length for the V8346 view D is perfect since I can fit all my skirts underneath and the coat keeps me warm. This is actually the perfect coat when I need to wait for a bus at the bus stop. A slight drawback is then that it takes a while to arrange the amount of hem when I sit behind a steering wheel myself!
I love the rose-patterned jacquard lining although I snagged it several times while sewing the coat. Luckily the pattern hides all the snags pretty well! The gold piping works as well. With the first facing, that I later ripped off, the lining was not sitting completely flat against the piping. The good thing about making the new facings was that I managed to do a much better job with the piping on the second run.
I attached my rose reflector brooch to the collar to bring some visibility in the dark. I also think that this coat fits very well together with the white Aeolian scarf I knitted about 10 years ago. (Another mega-project with silk-merino-lace yarn and 2500 little glass beads!)
I hope this coat making adventure of mine inspires you to try to make a coat, too. However, if you are planning to use my blog posts to help you I recommend you read all 7 blog posts and make notes where I retraced my steps. There were things that I tried and ended up unravelling, since they didn’t work such as the off-graining. Finally, there are some things in sewing that you just learn with experience. After this project I am much better with heavy, drapey fabrics that I was before.
The previous posts in this series are:
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