Sewing, Tailoring, Tutorials

Sewing trousers: slim-fit jacquard trousers

fancy-jacquard-trousers

My adventure in trouser making continues! This is the same gorgeous jacquard fabric that I used to make this dress. Because the fabric also has lots of stretch it suits very well for narrow fitted trousers. My last pair of self-drafted trousers had the same slim fit but otherwise they were plain. This time my aim was to create a pair of slim-fit trousers with a waistband and a pair of pockets.

I have been storing the trouser patterns here and there and had a lot of trouble locating the right pattern. With this project I actually ended up using a wrong pattern that I had to rip back to pieces once I noticed the bad fit. Luckily enough the pattern I used was still one of the midway patterns between the RTW linen trousers I started my drafting with and the narrow green pair that was my last make. So, I was able to salvage the fabric and I only had to cut the back piece narrower. After that the fit was much better. Sewing trousers is not easy!

Adjustments I made to my previous pattern

However, I wanted slimmer fit than the last time so I narrowed the legs further. Somebody also gave me a tip to get rid of the rest of the horizontal creases at the trouser front. Following the tip I straightened the center front seam a bit to make more room for my tummy.

The pockets didn’t need a pattern really, but to make the matters easier I took a random pocket pattern that I had in storage and used that after I modified it to fit to the front pieces.

I traced the pattern for the waistband following the curve of the top edge of the trousers (excluding the darts, of course). However after doing this I curved the tops of the front pieces a little more. I figured that if the waistband is a bit straighter it should pull the trouser fabric upwards and help to eliminate some of the creasing. Anyway, the waistband is 3,5 cm high and it has a front and a back piece plus the facings. I interfaced the outer pieces by using fusible interfacing. I sewed the bottom part of the facing by hand to make the neatest possible waistband.

 

This was also the first time I got to use my new zipper foot:

My Bernina invisible zipper foot.

It worked perfectly. I did have to re-sew the other side of the zipper twice but it was only due to misalignment. To secure the closing I made a little tab and added a small button to the inside of the waistband. I think that this time I can really be proud of what my sewing looks even from the inside:

The jacquard trousers from the inside.

The result

I did not manage to get rid of all the creases but there are less of them than with the previous pair. Perhaps I should lower the front a bit the next time? However, I am happy that the pockets seem to lie pretty flat. In most of the RTW trousers the pockets seem to flare out in an ugly way and I hate that. I also think that I might want to tilt the pattern just the tiny bit from the knee down. I have slightly knock knees and it shows in a pair of trousers that are this close fitting.

Sewing trousers: My jacquard trousers from the front.

From the back… I don’t really know if the fit could be improved here. It seems that the wrinkles appear and disappear depending on how I stand.

Sewing trousers: My jacquard trousers from the back.

I can make them disappear almost completely, but then I have to stand quite awkwardly:

My jacquard trousers from the back.

And now that I think of it, my trousers have been fitted without my shoes on. The heels do change the way I stand a bit so that might affect the fit of the trousers.

Anyway, I am happy with how this pair turned out. They are super comfortable and the waistband stays put even if I crouch down. I have still a 1 m x 1 m piece of this jacquard left and I wonder if I could make something small to make a complete outfit. A purse? A collar in a jacket? Must think of it…

The next thing in my trouser learning curve is sewing trousers with a proper fly. I might even go for a pair of jeans. I found very nice quality stretch cotton twill in both black and white at the local fabric store and I bought it to be used for trousers.

Thank you for reading and happy sewing everyone!

 

Katja

 

 

6 Comments

  1. Chrissa

    Hi Katja, your trousers look beautiful and I really like the jacquard fabric you used – it’s gorgeous. I’m yet to attempt sewing trousers so I’m quite in awe of your trouser makes!

    10 . Feb . 2018
    • kk

      Thank you, Chrissa! Trousers really are a challenge! It’s not the sewing that is difficult but the fit! Although, it is the same with RTW trousers. It is really hard to find a pair that really fits.

      10 . Feb . 2018
  2. sofie drolet

    Hello Katja, your trousers are beautiful !
    About the fit and the wrinkles that disappear with your legs being at an angle of about 15 degrees from the center crotch (eyeballing… could measure on the photo): on your sloper, I wonder if you pivot the axis of your leg towards the center, by the same amount…

    21 . Apr . 2018
    • kk

      Thanks for the tip. I am not sure whether it is all that happens, though. I also need to stick out my bum a bit, so there are other problems besides the angle of the trouser leg. That’s something to keep in mind, though, the next time I make a pair of these!

      23 . Apr . 2018
  3. dodie Plt

    Bonjour! je commente longtemps après la parution del’article mais je trouve votre blog très bien fait et très argumenté (après avoir lu quasiment tous les articles), c’est un véritable plaisir !
    Dans la recherche du pantalon au fir parfait, avez vous testé le pantalon à braguette de closet cases files : le sasha ??(https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/sasha-trousers-pattern)
    et encore bravo pour toutes vos réalisations <3

    20 . Sep . 2018
    • kk

      Merci beaucoup! I must check out this pattern you recommended!

      21 . Sep . 2018

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